
Hiking the Kinnekulle trail - A gentle loop full of charm and surprise
Kinnekulleleden - A gentle 48 km loop in Västergötland with forests, fields, shelters, and lake views. A varied and peaceful hike over three days.
A Late Start on a Friendly Trail
We began our hike from the parking lot in Hällekis, a little later than planned - around 14:00 - after a quick stop to stock up on some ready meals. It was me, two friends, and of course my dog Vizze. The plan was to complete the Kinnekulle trail in three days, with two overnight stays.
We had read that the first stage was the longest and toughest, so we decided to start with that while we had energy. It was a good call. The trail is well-marked and not too demanding. We all carried around 17 kg each, sharing the weight between us.
We reached Lasse’s Gruva, our first overnight spot, late in the evening. It’s a peaceful place with space to pitch tents, a wind shelter, grill spot, and even a water source. Just as we set up the tent, rain arrived - and unfortunately, our tent wasn’t as waterproof as we hoped. Some drops got through, but the weather soon calmed and we were able to sleep in the tent after all. Vizze had his own cozy spot in the vestibule, and was completely at ease, and quite happy to have his own space.
Forest paths, lakeside lunches, and sunset views
The first day had already taken us through a good variety of landscapes - lush forest, soft paths, and even a scenic little beach where we took a break for lunch and a dip in the water. Simple, beautiful moments.
Day two started like day one: gas stove, oatmeal with protein powder, and those small fruit smoothies (Semper ones - highly recommended). The trail continued to surprise us with it's mix of forest, open fields, and gentle hills. We reached the Kinnekulle lookout tower in the afternoon, but didn’t climb it - but the view from up there is probably great! There were seats and a café in the lower part of the tower where you could buy drinks and ice cream. Delicious treat after two days on the trail.
We had planned to refill our water bottles at the café, but there was one problem: we had already passed it about 10 minutes earlier. The water source wasn’t at the lookout tower café, but at a smaller café located before it named Kinnekullegården. When we passed by, it was closed, and we didn’t think much of it at the time. We walked back to try and find a tap, but there was no outdoor access to the water - it was only available from inside the building. We circled around, hoping to find something, but no luck.
This wasn’t mentioned in any of the information we found while preparing, so here’s a heads-up: you can only fill water at the café during opening hours. After that, you're on your own.
So now, we were low on water, and there weren’t any other sources nearby. Luckily, we spotted a few grazing animals with water tubs in the fields. We filled our bottles and boiled the water thoroughly before drinking. Not ideal, but it worked. That night, we slept in a wind shelter close by to the tower - just us, a warm breeze, and the sunset right in front of us setting over the lake Värnen. Quiet, calm, perfect.
Final steps and a sudden rainstorm
On day three, we woke up, cooked the same breakfast, and packed up for the final stretch back to the car. The distance we had left to hike wasn’t long, but our bodies were starting to feel it. Both me and one of my friends had a couple of blisters by then. Luckily, we had blister plasters ready - they made a big difference and let us keep a steady pace.
A couple of hours into the walk, we took a short detour - around 10 minutes off the trail - to visit Utsiktens Kaffestuga, a cozy café with an amazing view over Lake Vänern. It was the perfect place for a relaxed lunch break. They had outdoor seating, tasty pastries and drinks, and even outdoor toilets, which was a welcome luxury after two nights of camping.
After that well-timed stop, we continued the last stretch back toward Hällekis. We reached the car around 15:00 and just as we did, the skies opened up. A heavy rain shower came out of nowhere, and we laughed as we ran for cover in the camper van. Dry clothes on, snacks in hand, and that warm feeling of having completed something together.
Despite a few small setbacks - blisters, a leaky tent, a water hiccup - this trail had been kind to us. Beautiful, calm, and easy to return to. I can definitely see myself hiking Kinnekulleleden again.
Facts about the hiking trail Kinnekulle
📌 Location: Hällekis, Västergötland, Sweden
🛤️ Length: Around 48 km loop (usually done in 3 days)
🌲 Terrain: Forest trails, gravel roads, open fields, and some short climbs
⛰️ Elevation: Highest point is about 300 meters above sea level
🧭 Trail Marking: Clearly marked with orange signs
⛺ Overnight options: Wind shelters and tent spots at places like Lasse’s Cave and near the lookout tower
🚻 Facilities: Café and outside toilets at the lookout tower (check opening hours). The cafe ''Kinnekullegården'' located before the lookout tower offers meals and water during opening hours. The last cafe along the trail was ''Utsiktens kaffestuga''
💧 Water: Available at Lasse’s Cave - limited access elsewhere
Good to Know & Tips
⏱️ Start with the longest stage if doing the hike over three days – it makes the rest easier
🏕️ Lasse’s Cave has lots of space for tents and a water source
🕓 The café by the lookout tower closes early – check the hours in advance
🔥 Always bring a backup way to purify water – we ended up boiling ours
🥾 The trail is varied but gentle – great for intermediate hikers
🩹 Blister plasters were a lifesaver on the final day
🐾 A tent with a vestibule works well for dogs – Vizze slept quietly on a blanket outside
🌦️ Weather can change fast – pack rain gear, even in summer
Reflection
This trail offered a lovely mix of terrain - everything from quiet, shaded forests to wide open fields. The cafés along the route were a real bonus, giving us the chance to rest, enjoy a proper break, and (when open) grab a drink or something sweet.
Kinnekulleleden was gentle and friendly, but still gave us that satisfying feeling of having completed something real. There were also a few interesting sights along the way that made us pause and take in the surroundings.
Read more about Kinnekulle here.
Check out the hiking trail here.
Photos

The trail was 48 km long.

Three excited gals ready to get hiking!

At the start of the trail we passed a stonemasonry.

In the forest, there was a lot of mosquitos that was getting a bit too close...

The trail opened up to open fields.

Lasses cave. Just before this cave is where we pitched our telt and spent the night.

Ready for day two!

Green and mysterious.

The trail passed through MANY nature reserves. This part of the trail reminded us of Öland.

Scenic views.

This place was called Mantorpsfallen.

We passed two beached on the hike, the first on day one i´n Blomberg, this was the second one that we passed on day two.

Beach art.

This place was located high up. A long hill leading up to a beautiful view point. From here, it was not far to the lookout tower.

This is where we spent our second night.

The view from the wind shed was amazing! The sunset was our evening TV.

On the last day we passed this stone quarry - referred to as the Swedish Grand Canyon. Apparently, this is a popular place to park campers.

These stairs offered a short cut.

The last push. The parking lot where we started the hike was located not far from here.